The day I have been waiting for since we moved in is finally here!!! We have countertops guys, and not just any countertops but gorgeous thick white concrete countertops that seriously make me drool every time I walk by our kitchen.
After living with tile countertops for years and dreaming of the day that we could replace them I have to say this feels every bit as good as I thought it would and I just want to give a huge thank you to Concrete Countertop Solutions for partnering with us on this project and providing us with such an amazing product, you guys are seriously the best and have made my kitchen dreams a reality!
Ever since we bought our home I have been researching countertops looking for potential options to replace the ugly tile that was there when we moved in. (see before photo below)
Thank you to Concrete Countertop Solutions for partnering with me and sponsoring this post. As always all thoughts and opinions are 100% my own. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.
For the longest I wanted marble because of the light and bright look but once I factored in the cost and the fact that my kids would most likely destroy them the moment they were installed, I knew marble was out of the question.
So with my marble dreams crushed I researched other options but nothing seemed to give the exact look that I wanted. Either they looked too dark or too fake if that makes sense and of course, the 5k to 6k expense was just out of the question so I reserved myself to being stuck with ugly tile.
Then one day while I was perusing the interwebs and I came across Concrete Countertop Solutions and their white concrete countertop mix. At the time I had no idea that white concrete was even possible, I guess I just assumed it only came in grey or other stained options but after checking out their website I couldn’t believe how amazing the white concrete countertops looked or that it was even concrete for that matter, they looked so high end and from that moment on I was sold!
When we finally decided to pull the trigger on our kitchen Renovation a few months back I reached out to CSS about working together on this project and they said yes!
We agreed they would provide the products in exchange for our post about the process but just to be clear I did massive research about this company and their products during the two year period I had to dream up this kitchen and I would have bought and installed these countertops 100x’s over regardless.
Before we dive in I want to let you know that this post is going to be very long and very detailed because this is a large project and I want you to be completely prepared to do this yourself and that means tons of information coming at you but I am going to try to break it down in the simplest way possible.
Nonetheless, this post is long so grab yourself a cup of coffee and settle in because if white concrete countertops are something you would like to try your hand at, you need to read the entire post!
The Ordering Process
For our countertops we chose the square edge forms, CSS has many options to choose from but we liked the square edge form as it looks the most like stone and I love the fact that it dips down in the front giving the appearance of 2 1/4″ thick countertop. Throughout their website, they have calculators and guides to assist you with ordering the correct amount of product for each item which completely took the guesswork out of ordering for us but their customer service is seriously amazing so if you run into anything you aren’t sure about don’t hesitate to get in touch with them so they can assist you throughout the process. The entire staff is extremely knowledgeable and go the extra mile to make sure you feel confident throughout the process.
White Concrete Countertops Supply List
(or rent a large mixer from Home Depot, that’s what we did but make sure you get a clean one because you don’t want someones gray concrete mixing with your gorgeous white concrete)
Tools Required
Prep:
Before you begin this project be sure that your old countertops have been completely removed and every square inch of the floor/cabinets are covered with paper or some kind of protection…We did not get our floors covered all the way and ended up with way too much water on our first few batches which resulted in me spending lots of time cleaning concrete mix off the floor which was no fun.
The outcome of this entire project is going to depend heavily on the prep work you do BEFORE you even begin mixing the concrete, so when you get to the point that you think you’ve done enough, do more!
Helpful Tips: Try your best to use one piece of form instead of cutting it where possible to prevent visible seams in your finished concrete once you pull the forms off.
Also, I suggest watching the following videos here, here and here and reading this entire post thoroughly before you begin this project to familiarize yourself with each step.
Tips on Sink Install:
Note: I am putting this at the beginning because if you are not using a drop-in undermount sink you may run into the same issue that we did if you install your sink first so be sure to read this thoroughly before deciding which route to take depending on your sink.
If you are using an undermount drop-in sink you may skip this and proceed as normal but if you are using a farmhouse apron front sink or a fireclay farmhouse sink the install and the directions for forming around the sink will be a little different.
On our sink, we did things kind of backward and pretty much went against what we were told only because we had already installed the sink when I asked about how to form around it.
Here are the instructions straight from CSS:
Step One:
Measure the tops of the cabinets then cut and apply Durock which will give the concrete mix as well as your forms something to bond to. Durock is basically cement board and when you cut it things get very messy so be sure to cut it outside or in a place where it won’t matter. Once the Durock is cut to the correct size silicone the Durock to your cabinets making small dots every few inches.
Step Two:
Measure the back of your cabinets along the wall and cut the back edge forms to size, secure the forms in place with the 2-5/8″ construction screws, placing a screw every 6-12 inches whichever you are more comfortable with. We just added enough screws to ensure the forms were secure.
Step Three:
Measure the front and sides of your cabinets to come up with the measurements for your front and side form pieces, it is very important that you get the corners cut correct to ensure a good look once the concrete is poured. Using the edge expert as your guide place the form inside the edge as shown above then cut the front and side form pieces, the edge expert is a jig to ensure perfectly cut corners. It was a complete lifesaver and worked perfectly for us!
Insider Tip: After every messy step I took a few minutes to run the shop vac over the Durock and then forms to ensure no dirt or debris was left behind during the pour. You do not want a big piece of debris sticking out of your fresh concrete countertops so be diligent when it comes to cleaning the forms.
How We Used The Sink Form:
First, we installed the sink then once the forms were installed onto the cabinets we used this sink form and a blow dryer to heat up the sink form so that we could bend it into the shape of our sink corners.
We then marked and cut a notch into the sink form so that the form could come over the edge of our sink and meet up with the square edge form on the front, basically squaring off the edge of concrete and preventing it from seeping out. Then we taped everything very well being sure that it was holding it in the shape that we wanted. This step is completed after the forms have been installed but I wanted you to be aware of the process so you could choose which option works best for you, so come back to it when you get to that point if this is the option you want to go with.
The entire process was so easy and at first, I wasn’t sure the form would bend enough for the square corners of our sink but it worked like a charm and the finished edge is gorgeous.
Step Four:
If using an undermount drop in sink you will install your sink now, once your sink is installed take the pink foam board and caulk it to the sink ensuring a tight fit to prevent concrete from seeping through (it will come right off when you’re finished).
If you are using a farmhouse apron front sink the install and the directions for forming around the sink will be a little different depending on which option you went with like I said above. If you are using our method, install your sink form first and then caulk the foam board to the sink.
Be sure to cover your drain in case some concrete happens to get through… We did not and ended up with a pee trap full of concrete!
This is also the point where your faucet knockout will also go in. Find and mark where you would like your faucet to be placed and then use a hole saw to cut into the durock and place the faucet knockout inside of the hole going up through the bottom. When you’re finished the fit should be tight and the knockout will stand up enough to create a path for the faucet to be placed through the concrete once it has cured.
Step Five:
Once the forms are in place you will want to caulk everything and by everything, I mean every nook and cranny that concrete could possibly seep out of and you’ll also want to tape your corners at this point making sure that they are straight and that everything lines up correctly. Remember when you think you’ve done enough….. do more!
You will also want to tape all of your corners ensuring that no concrete could seep out. Also, caulk where the wall and back forms meet and where the durock and forms meet ensuring there are no holes. Remember when you think you’re done, do more!
Trust me this part is crucial, I remember on numerous occasions throughout this project asking if we should add more silicone caulking or add more tape and my wonderful husband refused. This coupled with the fact that we added too much water to our mixture in the beginning, is likely the reason I spent several hours on my hands and knees scrubbing our floors and cabinets…
Step Six:
After you have taped all of the corners, put on gloves and roll out the fiber mesh reinforcement this has small pieces of fiberglass inside it that will get inside of your skin so be sure to use gloves while handling the mesh. Also be sure to place the mesh with the top side up so pieces of it don’t stick up through the countertop. You will also want to make sure and cut the mesh back enough so that it doesn’t protrude out of the countertop edge once the forms are removed.
Step Seven:
This is where the z clips come in, you will want to place the clips in rows placing one every 12 inches as seen in the photos. Once the clips have been installed onto the mesh reinforcement place one construction screw into the designated hole in the clip and secure it to the Durock with a drill.
Step Eight:
For the last step of the prep go back through and clean everything! Make sure the forms are clean to ensure a smooth debris free look once it is finished and fix any mistakes or things you may have missed because once the concrete is mixed there is no going back or pausing to fix mistakes.
Before you start the next phase please note that the following steps will move VERY fast and there will not be much time to think so it would be wise to know who is doing what and be sure everyone involved is aware of their job and in what order things will be done so that you aren’t left scrambling.
Communication is key during a process with lots of moving parts so have a plan and make sure everyone is prepared.
If you are feeling unsure about something go back to the drawing board and research research research!
Also, Concrete Countertop Solutions and their staff deal with this on a daily basis and are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to concrete countertops so if you have a question please reach out instead of just winging it, they will be happy to help you at any point you aren’t sure about something.
The Pour
Before you begin this part I recommend you do a test run mixing the concrete. We rushed the test pour process and I wish we wouldn’t have because in the beginning we added way too much water to the mix and ended up with a soupy mess which ended up okay in the end but was super messy and that would have all been avoided if we had taken more time on our test pour to ensure we had the amount of water correct.
If you have experience with concrete this product is going to defy every single thing you think you know about mixing concrete and how it should look!
You will think its entirely too thick but I promise you this is the way its supposed to look (like thick cake batter) we started out using way too much water but settled on a little over 3 quarts of water per bag mixing one bag at a time into the mixer.
If you end up watering this mixture down you will not get the best results so be sure to stick to a cake batter consistency. Not only will this help you avoid a GIANT mess but the product will work as it is designed to work. 
As soon as the concrete mix got to the point that it was no longer clumpy powder we stopped adding water and this worked out perfectly we then mixed for the recommended one- three minutes.
CSS has a video showing the mixing process and how the mix should look that I highly recommend watching before you begin. You can watch that video by clicking here.
Once the mix is at the right consistency mix it for one minute before transferring into a clean bucket to pour.
Step Nine:
Pour the mixture into the forms being sure to get it into every crevice and using a small clean shovel to work it into the corners if needed. Continue pouring in that area until it is filled with concrete screeding as you go, leveling the mixture entirely.
The idea behind screeding is to make it level with the top of the forms, you’re not making it smooth yet so don’t worry about that right now. To make it level you will run your screed along the top in a front to back sawing motion until there are no low spots and everything is even/level.
Repeat steps eight and nine until you have filled all of your forms.
Step Ten:
While you move onto other areas have someone take the sander with no sandpaper on it, turn it on and run it down the outside edges of the forms for a few seconds which will vibrate the area and remove any bubbles that may have formed. Do not skip the sander, it is a must and should not be skipped because this could cause voids in the concrete once it is finished and may cause damage later so be sure to cover the entire area.
Step Eleven:
Once the concrete begins to set which happens almost immediately you will then use the magnesium float to smooth out the top. You will gently run the float over the tops in a random fashion smoothing as you go.
Step Twelve:
When the concrete has set a little more you will then smooth it out even further by gently going over it with the steel trowel. If at any point the concrete feels unworkable you can spray it a few times with your spray bottle of water to make it more workable.
This was my first experience working with concrete and as you can tell my husband did most of the finish work. He has done concrete work before but you can totally do this yourself just make sure you watch plenty of videos to get a good idea of how the troweling process works before you begin.
Step Thirteen:
After 24-48 hours you will be ready to remove the forms. In order to do this, you’ll want to sand the area where the concrete and forms meet first to loosen things up, after you’ve done that you will simply pry the form away from the concrete until it snaps off. It seems scary but it’s really not at all and the forms snap right off.
The edges should be nice and smooth once the forms are removed. Ours turned out wonderful and although there are some small holes from air bubbles I seriously love the way they turned out and I cannot wait to see them once the rest of our kitchen is finished in the coming weeks. If the bubbles are an issue for you CSS makes a product called Z Counter-Patch which you can use to fill the air holes.
Step Fourteen:
Sanding… This is the step that I wish didn’t even exist and if you’re lucky your trowel work was good enough that you won’t have to do much of it. Heres the thing, if I had it to do over again I would skip the sanding and just take the forms off and seal the countertops as is.
When it comes to white concrete the more you sand it the more that beautiful white color begins to show signs of aggregate/sand which is dark in color. The aggregate will leave visible marks and the counters will take on more of a salt and pepper tone which I wasn’t very fond of at first but the longer I’ve lived with it the more I’m okay with it.
By the time we realized how much of a difference sanding made it was too late to turn back, so I am warning you now if you want solid white counters with no aggregate showing do not fool yourself into thinking you can sand them very much, if at all because the aggregate will rear its ugly little head and there isn’t any going back once that happens.
We will 100% be using Concrete Countertop Solutions white concrete mix again in our laundry room and bathrooms in the future and I plan on trying out the no sanding method in those spaces.
Overall the countertops look white, other than a few places here and there being darker but at the end of the day its okay! Just know that the more you work on them the less white they will be and I can’t stress that enough!
Final Thoughts On DIY White Concrete Countertops
First I just want to say that I will forever be grateful for the folks at Concrete Countertop Solutions for providing us with this amazing product and making those gross tile countertops I have hated for so long disappear!
We love our countertops and would do it again in a heartbeat. One thing I will say is we both wished we would have taken more time on the practice pour because we know that would have helped us get the final mixture consistency right and avoid the huge mess that we made. Plus we would’ve been able to do a much better job because this is one of those where hindsight is 20/20 but that’s why you have us, so you don’t have to go through the hurdles!
A few things to keep in mind if you’re thinking about White Concrete Countertops for your own home:
- If you choose to sand the countertops they are not solid white although they appear to be from a distance. If you sanded once you move in closer you can see the different swirls and sections that are darker due to the aggregate showing through. If you want them solid white don’t sand!
- A majority of the work that needs to be done is prep work and even if you think you’ve done enough do more!
- This is a job that involves heavy lifting, you will need to be able to lift 50 lb bags of concrete and then carry buckets of concrete from the mixer to the forms.
- Things move so much faster than you think, we had three adults and one tween and still could have used an extra hand so have some folks over and pay them in pizza. : )
Not only do I want to say thank you to Dario and the team over at Concrete Countertop Solutions for making this possible but I also want to thank my wonderful husband and mother for all of their hard work!
It has been killing me to keep this a secret and I am so happy I finally get to share it with you all.
Next, I am sure you guys are wondering how much white concrete countertops cost so here is a break down of the money we would have spent on the products had Concrete Countertop Solutions not so graciously decided to work with us. I am so happy they did but this is definitely something I would pay for and do again.
52 Square feet of suplies= $981.93 plus shipping
If you have any questions about Concrete Countertop Solutions products feel free to reach out in the comments section and I will do my best to answer all of your questions. Also be sure to stay tuned to learn how to we will seal our new countertops to keep them looking amazing coming up next week!
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Omg Ashley I am loving this! They turned out stunning. Definitely going to be checking this out for our kitchen!
Thank you so much Beth! I seriously could not be happier with them and 100% you need to check them out for your own kitchen. They are so affordable when you do it yourself, like cheaper than Formica affordable!
So beautiful. A lot of hard work for you and your family, but don’t you appreciate it more because you did it yourself. Wish I had known about this product a few years ago, I would have paid someone to put in my small kitchen. Merry Christmas 🎄🎁
Thank you Mary! It was hard work but the amount of money we saved was a serious motivation and the fact that we no long have tile countertops makes me seriously giddy! Oh man they would be perfect in a small kitchen, now you know and can possibly help someone else out if they’re struggling to find something that is just as gorgeous as stone but so much more affordable. Merry Christmas to you and your family Mary 😘 I sure appreciate you sweet friend!
These are beautiful but look like a lot of work! Great job! When will you post the finished kitchen? Can’t wait to see it!
Thank you Elizabeth, the prep work was the most intense part to me and just because it took a while but the actual pour went very quickly. We have been slacking off majorly due to the holidays but plan on getting back at it this week so we can finish things up.
I cannot believe those are concrete…..they are absolutely stunning, Ashley! I am obsessed with how thick they are. Perhaps I could put this tutorial to use once I get around to my master bathroom.
Thank you Erica, I am obsessed with them! I had no idea white concrete was even a thing or how much more affordable it was as opposed to stone countertops. You should totally do it 🙂 We will definitely be using them in our bathrooms as well.
Sorry you couldn’t have the marble you wanted! I too am a marble lover yet had to opt for more practical/inexpensive faux concrete, but lucky for us marble is going out of style and concrete is in!
As much as I love marble I really am happy that we went with this option, I get the light and bright look without the heavy price tag and I’ll take that any day!
Beautiful kitchen! Do you know if the concrete would work as an overlay over the countertops?
Thank you so much, Sara! I am not aware of it being used as an overlay but the customer service team is absolutely amazing and I know they will help you find a product that fits your needs or point you in the right direction if they don’t carry it. You can email them at info@concretecountertopsolutions.com
Hi Ashley – I absoluetely love your countertops and have a few questions for you as I’m debating between white concrete and quartz currently. Quartz only because I’m scared of concrete in general & staining. How long have you been living w yours and how durable are they to etching, staining, etc? Additionally, can you give me some feedback relative to islandsand overhangs and what is allowed there? I saw some pics of what looked to be temp bracing for similar. I have a ratger large island and was planning on overhang on sides. 1 side woild be 11 ft long, the other would be 5 ft. Guessing I’d need bracing w concrete but not sure. Thanks in advance!
Hi Tiffany, we have only had ours for a few months and haven’t been able to fully use our kitchen yet due to the renovation. I am cooking and the kids are using the bar area but things haven’t gone totally back to normal yet. I’m going to be honest with you, the reasons we went with concrete were the following:
1. Way more affordable than natural stone
2. We could diy them which cut the cost even further
3. Still have the look and feel of stone as opposed to formica or other options.
All of that being said we love them and are so happy we did it but if we had the money to swing quartz I probably would have gone with it only because of the claimed indestructibility and less work involved. We have so many areas that need to be updated in our home that I knew if we had to add quartz to each space it would cost a ton which would mean we’d have to wait a long while to update our kitchen. So it was worth it to me to opt for concrete and move on rather than wait forever. If money isn’t an issue I say swing for the quartz because there is less work involved installing and less maintenance down the road. We have had no experience with staining or scratching yet but I’m really not sure how long the sealer will hold up.
As far as the overhang we will likely be using something just in case but my husband thinks we don’t need to worry about it because ours isn’t very big and once the concrete is poured it should hold up fine. Here is some information from their website regarding overhangs.
a. Overhangs -You can do up to a 12″ overhang without any additional support or reinforcement. All you will do is let your cement board overhang the cabinets. Remember the form will add another 1-1/2″ of overhang. You will need to temporarily support the cement board so it does not flex or sag under the weight of the wet concrete. To do this, we will usually use 2×4 legs placed every 24″ along the overhang. They should stay in for 2-3 days while the concrete sets up. The cement board will stay in place as the drop down in the forms will completely cover it. If you wish to do a larger overhang, you will most likely want to use extra rebar reinforcement or an exterior brace.
I hope this was helpful, feel free to reach out if you have anymore questions and I’ll do my best to answer them. Also, I would love to see your kitchen once it is finished!
I was wondering about the form along the back, where they meet the wall. Does it stay in place?
Yes it stays in place and gets covered by caulk and backsplash.
What if you don’t have a backsplash? Is it noticeable? Also, do you need to put 2×4 supports under the area of the dishwasher? Thanks, your countertops look amazing! We are pouring ours this Monday, if weather works in our favor! We have everything ready to begin building the forms tomorrow and I can’t wait! We are doing the Euroform square-edge style, due to some spacing considerations in our kitchen. I love both the thin and the thicker style though and yours turned out marvelously!
The one thing we need to check out with our test pour (tonight) is how the exposed aggregate with sanding will look. I can see positives and negatives to it: negative is not having the fully white surface, but the positive is that perhaps that bit of visual texture makes it less difficult to keep looking clean. Sometimes perfectly textureless white countertops show EVERY little thing, and having kids makes that hard to manage. Would you say having that salt/pepper look has helped in that way at all?
That is so exciting you guys are pouring your countertops ( I hope the weather worked out for you) As far as the dishwasher we did not add any support there other than the durock and everything has been fine so far. I don’t think the added support would hurt anything. I couldn’t agree with you more on the solid white countertop showing every little thing. The salt and pepper look can be a little disheartening if you have your heart set on solid white countertops but they really do read white from a distance and honestly, I love the added character it gives the space. Good luck with your countertops 🙂 I would love to see them once you guys are finished!
Hi! I have white tile countertops with white grout (what builder thought that was brilliant I don’t know). Mine are like yours were—that the tile doesn’t go over the edge but is enclosed by a wood frame. Did you ever consider just knocking the tile out but letting the wood frame serve as the form? I’m considering doing that. I know I will still have to reckon with the sink but overall do you think that will work? I found a white concrete overlay mix that can be applied thin enough because I know other regular concrete mixes need to be a certain depth and my depth would only be about a quarter of an inch.
Hi Marty! We did not consider keeping the wood frame because if I’m being honest minus the actual tile countertop that was one of the things I didn’t like about our counters. Busting the tile out would probably be a mess but you may be able to use the overlay type mix on it, I would definitely check with the supplier first to make sure this would in fact work. I have seen many people do the overlay over plywood and things like that but I’m not sure how it would work since once the tile is gone it will dip down creating a cavity of sorts. Concrete Countertop Solutions customer service members are very knowledgeable in all things concrete so they would likely be a great source of help for you on something like this, I would hate to say yes it will work without knowing for sure and I feel like they would be better at answering that. I hope you’re able to find a good replacement for your tile countertops and I would love to see it once its finished.
How many bags of mix did y’all use? We also will be doing approximately 52 sq. ft of counter space. Did you use the full package of square edge forms, or half?
Hi Judah, for ours we used 18 bags of concrete mix, when I placed the order I made sure to order an extra bag and we ended up using exactly 18 bags but I recommend getting the extra bag to do a test run on just so you can get a feel for how to properly mix the concrete… It is very different than typical concrete and must have a thick batter like consistency vs the soupy consistency of most concrete. We ordered a full package of forms but I think we could have got away with only ordering half because we still have some left over but I would measure it out just to be sure before ordering. Here is the information about how many forms come in the packs
Full Package includes eight- 8′ pieces (64 lineal feet) and six – 8′ backwall pieces (48 lineal feet).
Half Package includes four – 8′ pieces (32 lineal feet) and three – 8′ backwall pieces (24 lineal feet).
Did you have to pay almost $800 for shipping?
Hi Jessica, no we didn’t. I believe ours was around $300- $350 for 18 bags, a full package of forms and two trowels.
Hi Ashley, I’ve been considering putting concrete countertops in our kitchen. I’ve also been looking for Quartz deals and like you, the Quartz is coming up to be a little more than what we have to spare in the $$$ department. I’ve read, pretty much, your whole step by step, it’s very informative and thank you for that. My significant other and his boys have done concrete before so hopefully that will come in handy but I don’t want them thinking this is your ordinary concrete either. This is where your so informative step by step will come in handy. All of that being said, I have a question. How long did the process take y’all? From the time you started prepping the area to the wet concrete in the form, floated/leveled just waiting to dry. I know there’ll be the 24-48 hr drying period. Just trying to figure out if the prepping stage should be done in a day then pour the next or is the prepping stage more of a 3 day thing?
We did everything in a few days but we ended up being down to the wire Sunday pouring concrete at 3pm and had to be at work Monday early so if we did it again I would most definitely start the prep a day or two earlier that way we would have Saturday and Sunday to deal with the actual pour & clean up. Speaking of clean up we thought we had enough tape up to seal things off but LORD we were so mistaken… If you think you’ve taped enough do it ten more times because it will find a tiny way out if it’s there and clean up was a wreck. One thing I would recommend for you if you’re considering the white is this, buy a bag or two and take the time to make a small form and do a test run so you can get a feel for the concrete mix itself because it is not like regular concrete as far as the consistency it needs to be much thicker (pancake batter like) and the test pour will also allow you to see the white up close and in person to make sure you like the color. Ours are much more peppered than I thought they would be and it was kind of shocking at first but overall I do love them. I will say if getting quartz wasn’t such a stretch at the time we started all of this I definitely would rather have quartz just due to the ease of having someone else install it and the indestructibility… If you can afford it or are close to being able to afford it (within 6 months to a year) I’d say save up and spring for the quartz. But if you are in a situation and absolutely hate your counters like we did and likely won’t have an extra 5 grand laying around anytime soon then go for it but try a test first to make sure it’s something you like before going through all of that work.
Wow thanks for all the info! My husband an I will be doing this all this month and I loved the amount of detail in your post. I definitely feel better prepared for this project. It’s the first time I’ve seen someone use these kind of molds… And I think we will use this company as well. Thanks again! This was soooo helpful.
Hi! Just curious what sealer you used and if you are happy with it’s protection?
How did you do the overhang? Did you use anything to support it?
Did you just use white concrete or did you also use the pure white additive? It’s sold out right now so wondering if we need it
Hi Hedi,
We just used the white concrete mix. I would just make sure you don’t add too much water that was one thing we did that made a huge mess. Good luck and let me know how you like it!